The Tandem Guide to… Edinburgh
“Piled deep and massy, close and high; Mine own romantic town.” - Walter Scott
Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, with its population of over half a million people, was the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature, and Time Out Magazine voted Edinburgh as 2022’s Best City in the World. Huddled beside three volcanoes (yes, really, volcanoes in Scotland) Edinburgh’s skyline is comprised of the stunning castle on its rocky perch, modern architectural delights built among ancient, topsy turvy buildings piled on top of each other, grand hotels and palaces beside tiny basement dwellings and beautiful parks. It’s the most beautiful of jumbles to regard; and to step onto its streets is something entirely magical. It’s no wonder that Edinburgh is therefore both the home of and inspiration for many a literary delight.
From the moment you arrive in Edinburgh, if you’re at all bookish, you’ll notice that this is a place built upon a love of literature. From the moment you step off the train into Waverley Station, named after the great work by Edinburgh native Sir Walter Scott and emerge from the station into the shadow of the black, gothic Scott Monument - the largest monument to a writer in the world - our desire to honour the literary sons and daughters of Auld Reekie is apparent. The National Museum of Scotland, which is free to enter and is one of my favourite places in which to while away a rainy day, houses the first printed 1996 screenplay for Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting, signed by Ewan McGregor. There are letters from Robert Burns, perhaps Scotland’s most famous poet, there too - including a handwritten letter from him to Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. A stroll through the haunting graveyard of Greyfriars Kirk reveals familiar names such as Tom Riddell and William McGonagall, for fans of She Who Must Not Be Named and her beloved creation, Harry Potter. Cobblestones are engraved with quotes from favourite books, author handprints are found imprinted in the roads, and there are homages to literature at every twist and turn.
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh has a special place in the hearts of writers who err on the macabre side. In 1440, the ‘Black Dinner’ occurred in Edinburgh Castle; two brothers, members of the Douglas family who were perceived as a threat to the throne, were invited for dinner. As they ate, a black bull’s head was placed before them; a symbol of death. The brothers were dragged outside to Castle Hill, the towering plateau above the city, and despite them pleading for their lives, they were beheaded. Many centuries later, this most grim of dinner parties inspired George R. R. Martin to write one of the most shocking scenes in The Game of Thrones; the Red Wedding. With winding cobbled streets full of dark nooks and crannies, ancient buildings clustered on volcanic slopes, Mary King’s Close - a subterranean town buried beneath the bustling city centre, offering a maze of abandoned houses, crypts and corners to explore - a real favourite with ghost hunters and those with a penchant for plague history - and a devastating connection to the witch hunts, second only to those in Salem, Edinburgh is a horror or supernatural writer’s dream.
But Edinburgh isn’t all ghosts, witches, murder, doom and gloom - though we do do it very well. New Town is the location of the popular 44 Scotland Street novels by Alexander McCall Smith. These worldwide bestsellers delve into the lives of a quiet Edinburgh neighbourhood and the extraordinary lives of its residents. First published as a serial novel in the Scotsman newspaper, it is now the longest-running serial novel in the world. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who gave us Sherlock Holmes, lived here; you can have a drink in the wee pub which used to be his home. Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Treasure Island among others, was also born and raised here, and you can now host friend and family in his charming former home, now a unique events space called The Stevenson House. You could also stop for refreshments in Badger & Co; a whimsical bar and restaurant in the childhood home of Kenneth Grahame, author of The Wind in the Willows. Edinburgh does whimsy just as well as witchy; it’s an incredibly beautiful place, where people from around the world come together on rooftop bars to watch iconic purple sunsets over the ancient castle and the surrounding volcanos, where lovers stroll hand in hand through quaint little lanes and sit in cosy corners to talk, where families lie out between fountains and ice cream stands on sunny days in Princes Street Gardens, where students discover themselves on late nights and early mornings as mist clings to the contours of this fairytale-like place. Every year, the city plays host to the Edinburgh Festival - the world’s largest and greatest celebration of art and culture. Totally open-access, the Fringe - as it’s known locally - includes anyone with a story to tell and matches them with a venue willing to host them. From street performers to world-class musicians, from comedy icons to up and coming spoken word poets, from dance troupes and acrobats to clowns and mimes, from tiny pub to stadium and culminating in the Tattoo - an explosion of hoardes of bagpipe players, drummers, cannons from the castle and fireworks which light up the city - it’s the ultimate love letter to the arts. As if that wasn’t enough, the Edinburgh International Book Festival happens alongside the Fringe - the largest public celebration of written word in the world, and an absolute haven for us bookish folk.
Edinburgh from Calton Hill
Film
Auld Reekie - as it’s known around here - has also lent its incredibly diverse scenery to a host of films. Marvel fans will delight in the knowledge that Edinburgh was the only real location used in the world during production of Avengers: Infinity War - everything else was filmed in a studio. Filmed over 7 weeks, it was the largest and most complex shoot ever filmed in Edinburgh’s Old Town. I was fortunate enough to live in Edinburgh during filming and had a taxi blown up at the end of my street one Tuesday evening, while Paul Bettany and Elizabeth Olsen stood by. It was, as a Marvel fan, an out of body experience for me. A particularly epic battle scene was filmed on the Royal Mile, on the roof of St Giles’ Cathedral, and in Waverley Train Station on Platform 2 - which is, coincidentally, where I met and fell in love with my similarly Marvel-obsessed fiancé. Aw. Cute. Fast & Furious 9 spent 19 days filming in 11 different areas of Edinburgh city centre in September 2019. Dare devil stunts and car chases were filmed in iconic areas of the city - the traffic disruption was more than worth it as bystanders and locals were treated to some incredible stunt work. Perhaps one of Edinburgh’s most iconic movies is, of course, Trainspotting - I used to walk the route of Ewan McGregor’s infamous ‘Choose Life’ opening scene each morning to work, and many a time had to resist the urge to break into a panicked run and roll across the bonnet of a car as those crashing drums pounded in my head. If you’re the type of person who’s into Eurovision - in which case, let’s be friends - Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga, starring Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams, was also filmed between here and Iceland. The two stars share a nearly romantic moment atop Calton Hill, where my fiancé and I had one of our first dates, and which provides a stunning view of Edinburgh as reward for a relatively short and steep climb. On football days, the stirring sounds of thousands of fans singing ‘Sunshine on Leith’ by the Proclaimers drift across the city from Easter Road. The Proclaimer’s epic musical was, of course, shot in Edinburgh, following the story of one tight-knit family and three couples bound to it as they traverse life’s twists and turns. I challenge you to find an Edinburgh local who doesn’t get a bit teary when Sunshine on Leith is played.
Bookshops
Being in Edinburgh feels partly as if you are in a low-conflict episode of Games of Thrones (it’s quite normal to walk past a building with a cannonball embedded in the wall, or to have your hair cut in what used to be a prison to house witches - there’s a somehow charming sense of historical violence) partly like attending Hogwarts and partly like enjoying the most incredibly cosmopolitan city in the world. It’s totally unique, and totally wonderful. No visit to Edinburgh would be complete without a visit to some of its iconic bookshops - so I’ve done some of the legwork for you and put together a little list of my favourites. This is very far from an exhaustive list; it’s just a tiny selection box, an aperitif to whet your appetite should you be fortunate enough to find yourself in a position to visit Auld Reekie.
Rare Bird Books, Stockbridge
First up is my favourite; Rare Bird Books. This multicoloured dream of a shop stocks books solely by woman authors, and what a selection it has- a true diverse range of titles from the wonderfully diverse spectrum of woman writers the world has gifted us. On my last visit I was clutching three books within minutes of arriving - it’s that kind of bookshop, so factor that in to your book budget if you intend to visit. This is perhaps one of the most perfectly curated bookshops I’ve ever visited, and their commitment to getting people reading for fun is unrivalled. While visiting their bookshop in person should absolutely be added to your bucket list, you’re lucky that their online offering is exceptional - check out their Book Club, their book-inspired gifts (including the most incredible scented candles), their 24 Days of Reading Advent Calendar, and so much more to get stuck into on their website.
Golden Hare Book, Stockbridge
Second is the wonderful Golden Hare Books. This bookshop holds a special place in my heart as being the absolute best bookshop for children. Through the main bookshop - which features a crackling open fire and a perfectly curated selection of beautiful books for adults - is a small but perfectly formed area for children, with bright murals, bean bags and a selection of children’s books which every single time induces a strange kind of “squeeeeee” noise from me. I have cried in there three times, and I always come away with the most special children’s books (and something for myself, of course, as their adult offering is equally gorgeous, and I’ve never left with less than four books. Eek)
Topping & Company, Edinburgh
Third up we have Topping and Company. I must begin by saying that this is a very large bookshop, and I have been lost in there many a time, so if you’re like me and prone to wandering, take note of your whereabouts throughout your visit (or allow yourself to get lost for an afternoon, if you aren’t in a rush - that’s equally acceptable). It’s got ladders, which is instantly pleasing, and an immense range of books on every topic. I’m inclined to say that it has every book ever, but I have no foundation to prove that, other than it is stacked floor to (very high multi-level) ceiling with books and I’ve never been unable to find what I need in there. This is a good place to have a Beauty and the Beast library moment - a singing teapot hasn’t appeared for me yet, but there’s still time.
McNaughtan’s, Edinburgh
Next is McNaughtan’s; the oldest bookshop in Scotland. You won’t find any newly published books here - but you will find antique and rare, collectible books, often from centuries ago. Set at basement level, down some steps off a busy, bustling main street lined with modern bars and eateries, ducking through the door (with its iconic handle below knee-height, which always makes me think I might bump into a hurried, angry Hogwarts goblin emerging with an armful of books) feels like entering another world. The smell is second to none; dust, old parchment, the scent of stories long forgotten and awaiting rediscovery. It’s always hushed, quiet, reverent almost - and you’re sure to find an old book which makes the perfect gift for a loved one. There’s something so special about giving and receiving a second (or third, or fourtieth) hand book - and McNaughtan’s is the place to find that in Edinburgh.
Typewronger, Edinburgh
Next door is Typewronger’s - whose tagline is ‘So Wrong, Let’s Write!’ Typewronger Books is Edinburgh’s smallest bookshop and Scotland’s only typewriter repair shop. They sell new books, independent publication and zines, and began life selling books out of an old Edinburgh police box - e.g. an actual Tardis. Typewrongers maintains its Tardis feel - a tiny but perfectly formed little hub of literary love and community spirit. It’s everything I love about an indie bookshop.
Fuel
If you’re anything like me, any day out revolves around keeping well-fuelled; so I couldn’t finish up this whistle stop tour of Edinburgh without recommending a couple of eateries and drinkeries. For a cosy coffee in a convenient spot between two bookish hubs (central Edinburgh and Stockbridge) Leo’s Beanery is a true family spot, supplying the most delicious coffee (if you’re a coffee geek, you can even choose what to which temperature you’d like your milk heated) alongside a delicious selection of snacks and meals including vegan and gluten free options. It’s a brilliant breakfast spot in an iconic Edinburgh basement setting, where regulars dash in for their morning coffee on the way to work, colleagues cosy up for work meetings, and writers huddle down for a day’s creating.
If you’re after something more substantial after a long day of swooning over the city, and have a penchant for the wacky, Paradise Palms is a good target. Serving exclusively vegan (and vegetarian, by request) food from Lucky Pig, the menu is mouth watering, with a focus on soul food - something us vegans and celiacs can find ourselves deprived of sometimes. The interior alone makes this spot worth visiting - the ceiling is carpeted with soft toys, neon signs and lights light up the place, elaborate statues and nicknacks adorn the walls, and the bar serves an incredible array of unique drinks including one which features Scotland’s notorious tonic wine; a Buckfast Daiquiri - ‘Rum & lime cut through Buckfast’s medicinal notes to create a delicately balanced fusion of tropical tastes with a whiff of Cumbernauld’. It’s all very Edinburgh.
If you’re looking to get the party started, you could do a lot worse than to check out Brewhemia. Scotland’s only beer palace, it’s an always-lively spot with an incredible array of drinks, food and entertainment, from brass bands who perform on your table, to drag Kings and Queens, duelling pianos, acoustic and live music, immersive cabaret and any number of surprises in between. Edinburgh is one of the most welcoming and accepting places in the world, with its huge student population, its cultural melting pot and its constant flow of tourists, and Brewhemia is the perfect place to let go of any inhibition and make new friends; something that Edinburgh makes very easy indeed.
And finally, if you’re just after a quiet, cosy nook in which to read your new books and take stock of the day - perhaps with a wee dram of the good stuff - allow me to recommend The Last Drop. This charming, cosy pub is situated in Edinburgh’s historic Grassmarket, once a place where farmers brought their hay and produce to sell. You could be forgiven for thinking that the name of the pub refers to a thirsty patron draining the last drop from their glass; but, my dear reader, don’t forget where you are. This building was where men and women who had been sentenced to hang outside on the gallows (still marked on the cobbles) were brought for their last dram of whisky; referred to as “one for the road.” They would then be hung by the neck until dead in front of the baying crowds. See? Charming.